Tutorial: Building the Eyes of 'Red Glam'

As requested by Kia over at yummy411, here is the tutorial for the eyes used in my recent Red Glam FOTD. I apologize ahead of time for some of the shots where my eye isn't relaxed and completely shut. Scary, I know!

Products you'll need:
Shimmersand s/s (or any base of your choice)
Daisy Chain e/s (soft pale yellow)
Goldmine e/s (golden yellow)
Ochre Style e/s (dirty golden yellow)
A Little Folie e/s (red-toned brown)
Signed, Sealed e/s (heavyset maroon)
Blacktrack f/l (black gel eyeliner)
Graphblack Technakohl (heavy black eye pencil)
L'Oreal Voluminous (or mascara of your choice)
Red Cherry Eyelashes #119 (or false eyelashes of your choice)

Brushes you'll need:
MAC 239 - dense packing brush
MAC 217 - blending brush
MAC 219 - pencil tip brush
MAC 208 - dense angle brush

Step 1: Apply base to the lid. In this case, I used Shimmersand Shadestick. This will allow the eyeshadows placed on top to adhere to the eyelid allowing the colors to represent their truest color. If using a Shadestick, be sure to smooth out the clumps if any form. Normally I would apply an additional base like Urban Decay's Primer Potion (UDPP) first all the way up to the brow bone, but in this instance, putting UDPP under the Shadestick would make an already drying Shadestick much drier and very difficult to work with. You can apply the base of your choice up to the brow bone. I decided to just use Shimmersand on my lid only. The highlight color will actually adhere to my skin without any base - weird eyelids!

Step 2: Using a dense packing brush like MAC's 239, apply Daisychain e/s (soft pale yellow) to the inner 3rd of the lid. You can work this eyeshadow a little above the crease so that when we blend the inner crease later, it will have something to blend with.


Step 3: Again, using my MAC 239, I apply Goldmine e/s (golden yellow) to the middle of the lid starting a little above the crease and working the color down to the upper lashline. After applying a solid brick of color in the middle of the lid, SOFTLY blend the Goldmine e/s into Daisychain e/s just a little bit to rid the harsh line. I do this by just wiggling my 239 over where Goldmine e/s and Daisychain e/s meet.


Step 4: Using a blending brush like the MAC 217, pick up some Ochre Style e/s (dirty golden yellow) and blend, starting from the outer edge of Goldmine, the edges of Goldmine and Daisychain e/s along the crease towards the bridge of the nose. Use the brush horizontally to achieve this. Once you get closer to the tear duct, you want to maintain the color of Daisychain e/s so be sure to blend Ochre Style e/s just above it.


Step 5: Using the MAC 217 again except vertically, apply A Little Folie e/s (red-toned brown) to the outer 3rd of the lid making sure to deposit the color at the very outer edge of the lid EVERY time you grab color and GENTLY sweep the color in towards Goldmine. This motion alone with automatically blend A Little Folie with Goldmine e/s.


Step 6: Switching the 217 back to a horizontal position AND WITHOUT picking up more color, GENTLY blend A Little Folie e/s in a soft, circular motion across the crease stopping at the inner edge of Goldmine e/s. Remember, we already blended Ochre Style e/s on the inner crease already. Should you need to pick up more A Little Folie e/s, make sure to deposit the color ONLY over the outer crease of the lid where A Little Folie is initially placed. Doing this will emphasize the depth of your eyes in the outer edges.


Step 7: Time for the pencil brush or MAC's 219. Dot this a couple times into Signed, Sealed e/s (heavyset Maroon) and draw a line at the very edge of the lid. This line (or draw a really big dot) should not be long vertically as you do not want it to go too high above the crease. Make sure the color is really in there.


Step 8: Dot the brush again in Signed, Sealed e/s and doing a quick snap of the wrist, gently flick the color away from the deposit point fading the color as you sweep. When flicking, lightly lift the brush up to achieve this effect. Think gradient :) Deepen the deposit point as much as you want but make sure you flick and lift the brush from that point on.


Step 9: Starting from the top of the Signed, Sealed deposit point, gently blend it around the edge of the orbital area of the eye. This should be where the crease color (A Little Folie & Ochre Style) meet the lid colors. Be sure to fade as you work towards the inner lid.


This is how it should look up to this point.


Step 10: Add the highlight color of your choice. I used Daisychain e/s and applied it with my 239 brush. Since my colors are blended for the most part, I apply Daisychain right underneath my eyebrows and pull the color towards the crease but not too much to make it look over blended.


Step 11: Using an angle brush like the 208, or any black eyeliner of your choice, line your upper lashline.


Step 12: Line the waterline with a heavy black liner. I used MAC's Graphblack Technakohl.


Step 13: Curl the lashes and add mascara! I spy a stubborn lash!!


Step 14: Add the wings and VOILA! You're ready to fly away :)





After fixing the rest of the face with some blush and daring red lips, you can now rock your own 50's glam!

Another weekend has come and gone folks! But here's to an exciting week ahead... cheers!

Aloha,
Mrs. Lynne

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